So you have, or are going to shave you handles and are not happy with the stock handles?  Here's a write up on one way to remove the interior handles.

The stock interior handles are, well... stock.  A lot of people are doing the chrome envoy handles.  I wanted to do something a little different then most.  While there are several people with shaved interior handles, there aren't nearly as many as otherwise.  Also, I did mine with a slight twist.

First thing's first.  You've got to remove the door panel from the truck.  You need to remove the two 7mm bolts from the arm rest, and the single philips head screw from the handle bezel.  Pull off the bezel.  You'll have to remove the window crank if you have manual windows.  I've found it easiest was to remove the cranks is to take a flat head screwdriver and push the retaining clip out.  I've tried a pick set with very little luck pulling.  Once all of that is off, tug on the sides and the bottom to loosen up all of the retainers.  THen lift up to remove the door panel.  There is a lip on the panel that slides down in between the window and the interior door skin that has to come up before you can remove the panel.

With the panel off you need to remove the window felt.  You can bend the staples back to be able to slide them out, or cut them.  You won't need them later.  Next, remove the upper panel where the handle hole is.  I did so by taking a flat head screwdriver, sliding it down between the two panels near the plastic rivets and twisting.  Others have said to drill out the rivets out.  I haven't tried it personally. 

Here's what you get when you have that panel off.

Now you need to roughen up the are around the handle opening.  I used a 60 grit paper.  Make sure you get front and back.  You should do all of the front so that when you go to upholster it, the glue has something to stick to.

Now starts the fun part.  I decided to use foil on the outside as my fiberglass mold. 

Once you've got the mold setup, then you're ready to start glassin!  Make sure you've got everything you need.  Resin & hardener, Fiberglass mat, sicsors, tub to mix it in, somthing to mix it with, paint brush, latex gloves (don't try this in bare hands...  it takes FOREVER to get the resin off of your hands), body filler, sand paper, spray on glue, material to upholster, whatever foam you want to use behind the  mater, and the ALWAYS necessary beer.

Cut your glass mat to be larger then the opening.  I was a little short, so I had to add some to the sides.  Brush in the resin mixed with hardener (follow the directions for proper mixing).

Once all of it is dried, you need to sand all of the high spots down, but be careful not to go all the way through anywhere on the glass. 

The next layer can be on the back, or the front.  When I did mine, I put a layer on both sides before I sanded again. 

Sand everyting level, or pretty close.  And low spots you can fill in with body filler. i used bondo glazing and spot putty because of the small volume I was dealing with.  Once the filler is on, sand it level.  After the foam and the material is on, you won't notice small imperfections, but you should get it pretty level.  If you're going to paint it, you really need to get a VERY smooth surface.

Now that the hard part is done, onto the upholstering.  Spray the panel, and the back of the foam with some 3M 90 spray adhesive.  After a minute or so, press the foam onto the panel then trim up the edges.

If you'd like to put a design into the foam, you'll need to use a thicker and higher density foam for the backer.  Cut out the design in the lower density foam backer, use some of the 3M 90 adhesive, and glue it in the opening.

Spray the front of the panel/foam backer and the back of the material with 3M 77 to adhere it together.  Press it on slowly starting with the design.  Keep the area around the design close and as tight to the design as you can without bunching up the material.    On the back, you want to have the material trimmer to about 2" from the edge of the panel.  Spray the back of the panel, and the back of the material with the 3M 77.  Around the areas where there's in inside curve, trim it to 1" from the edge, and make small cuts everyt 1/4" to 1/2" to make the curve with little bunching up. 

To put the panel back on, you'll have to use some sort of fasterner, or adhesive.  I used "plastic weld" adhesive.  The first try with "plastic epoxy" didn't turn out well. 

After that's done, you need to put the window felt back on.  I tried staples with little luck.  I found a post on s10forum.com that sais to use pop rivets.  It worked VERY well.  1/8" rivets are sufficent.

Go ahead and put it the door panel back on and you're done!

While you've got the panel off, it's a good idea to put down some sound deadener (I use eDead by www.elementaldesigns.com).  I also upgraded to a nice set of component speakers and added a switch for my doors into the door panel.  These are all optional, but it sure doesn't hurt!